Stones of the past seem to be the future!Stone is a product of nature and its appearance is a result of millions of years of geologic change and mineral composition. Extreme color variations, as well as variations in veining, shade, finish, texture, strength, hardness and density are all characteristics of natural stone. Some stones may contain a resin filler to fill in the natural fissures or pits in the stone's surface. Special care is required for maintaining natural stone. Check with a local sales representative regarding the special needs for your stone selection. With proper care, its beauty will last a lifetime.
Granite:(Igneous Rock) Granite began as liquid magma in the earths core and is comprised mainly of quartz, feldspar, mica and other minerals. It's high compressive strength, hardness and durability make it an ideal choice for flooring and counter tops as well as exterior applications.
Marble & Onyx: (Metamorphic Rock) Marble is formed from Limestone that has been heated by the earth's core and changed into a crystalline structure. It is valued for its rich, beautiful colors and unique veining.
Limestone:(Sedimentary Rock) Limestone is comprised mainly of calcium carbonate and is the result of millions of years of sea shells and bones of sea creatures settling on the ocean floor. You can sometimes notice the fossils when examined closely.
Travertine: (Sedimentary Rock) Travertine began as Limestone and is a result of hot springs in the earth's core. After the water evaporated, the layers of dissolved limestone and minerals gave the stone its banded appearance. The characteristic holes in the stone are a result from gas bubbles which evaporate and form crystals in the cavities. These cavities are sometimes left as is for a more rustic & antique look or filled with a tinted epoxy and honed for a more solid surface effect.
Slate:(Metamorphic) Slate is formed from compressed layers of the sedimentary rock shale that can be split to reveal beautiful colors and textured surfaces. Slate can be split and left with its natural cleft surface or gauged for a more consistent thickness.
Quartzite: (Metamorphic) Similar to slate, quartzite contains 95% quartz and a higher concentration of mica which gives it a sparkling texture. The current trend in stone is definitely travertine - as old looking as possible.
There are several things that can be done to stone to create new finishes. Here is a list of popular finishes:
Antiqued:This can mean different things to different manufacturers. The surface is usually brushed or honed with different pads, creating an old look. Sometimes the surface is acid washed, exposing a dimpled surface (this works especially well with travertine). The edges tend to have a chipped or tumbled look. Basically the stone looks like it's been around a while.
Brushed:Wire brushes are used on the surface to create an undulated look.Chiseled: There are various methods used to produce this look, but basically the edges come out chipped. Generally the surface of the tile is honed or brushed.
Cobbled:Basically the same as chiseled, but the chips aren't as deep.Honed: A matte surface is created similar to polishing, minus the last few pads. High Hone:A matte finish with a soft sheen, between honed and polished.Polished: Pads are used to create a glossy sheen on the surface of the stone.
Tumbling: Stones are put in a big cylinder and tumbled with other stones and smaller stones to create a rounded edge and softer finish. Length of time in the "Tumbler" determines how rounded the edges are. Softer stones, such as travertine, tend to have a more rounded edge than harder stones, such as marble.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Step by Step instructions for Tile Installation:
1. Surface Preparation
Ceramic tile may be installed over most structurally-sound substrates.
Make sure all surfaces to be tiled are clean, smooth, dry and free of wax, soap scum and grease. Any damaged, loose or uneven areas must be repaired, patched, and leveled. Remove all moldings, trims, appliances, etc. which may interfere with the installation. Door jambs may be undercut for tiles to slip under.
2. Layout
When tiling walls, tubs, or shower areas, begin by finding the center point of the wall. Use a level to draw a plumb line in the center of the wall.
Align a row of loose tiles across the bottom of the wall from the center line, leaving uniform joints between tiles. If your tiles have integral spacer lugs, the tiles can be abutted to automatically leave consistent 1/16" joints.
If this layout leaves small cuts (less than 1/2 tile) at walls then adjust plumb center line a half tile closer to the side wall.
Now determine the lowest point of the floor (or tub) by horizontally using a level. Stack two tiles here, and at the top draw a horizontal line on the wall. With a level, continue the line around all side walls to be tiles. This line is a guideline for the first row of tiles to be set above.
Begin installing tiles to the center of the wall above the horizontal guideline. Install one half of the back wall at a time. Set the lower two rows last. Cut and fit bottom tiles against the floor (or tub) if not level. Leave a 1/8" gap above the tub for caulking to seal around tub.
Repeat the above process for side walls. Mark outside tile lines on walls that will not be completely tiled in order to spread adhesive.
Leave out tiles where you plan to install ceramic accessories (soap dish, towel bar, etc.)
Use bullnose trim pieces to finish edges on walls where necessary.
Floor LayoutWhen tiling floors, begin by marking the center points of all four walls. Snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls. The lines will intersect in the center of the room. Make sure that the lines make perfect squares and adjust if necessary.
Lay out a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, leaving spaces for uniform joints between the tiles (use tile spacers).
If this layout leaves small cuts (less than 1/2 tile) at walls, then adjust the center line by snapping a new chalk line a half tile closer to the wall. Repeat this process along the other center line, adjusting as necessary.
Now divide the room into smaller grids by snapping additional chalk lines parallel to the center lines. To fit the exact dimensions of these grids, lay out an area of tile approximately 2' x 3' starting in the center of the room along the center lines. Use tile spacers or leave equal joints between the tiles. Measure this grid and use the dimensions for each smaller grid throughout the room.
Begin installing tiles in the center of the room. Install one quarter of the room, one quarter at a time. Finish each grid before moving on to the next one. Cut and fit the perimeter tiles in each grid last. Leave a 1/4" gap between the tile and walls.
Do not walk on fresh tiles for about 24 hours until they set.
Countertop LayoutWhen tiling counters, lay out tiles from front to back. Begin with counter trim then set full tiles on the first row working backward, so all cuts are made on the back row against the wall. Special trim pieces are available for use around recessed sinks, appliances, etc. if necessary.
Snap parallel chalk lines on the substrate as needed to keep rows straight.
For backsplashes, match up joints with the countertop tile. Begin with full tiles at the counter, working up so that all cuts are made on the top row under cabinets. Use bullnose trim pieces on flat walls or sides. Tile countertops should have a tile backsplash at least four inches high for protection.
3. Setting Tile
Variation of shade and texture is an inherent characteristic of ceramic tiles. For a blended effect, mix tiles from several cartons as you set.
Tile ceilings before walls Tile walls before floors.Tile countertops before backsplashes
Once you have chosen the proper adhesive or mortar, read all instructions and precautions on the package before using. Mix thinset or mortar according to the directions on the package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes. Pre-mixed wall tile adhesives can be applied directly from the can without mixing.
Determine the appropriate type of trowel (V or square-notch) and the right size (depth of notches) for the type of tile you are setting. Refer to the setting material package for recommendations.
Applying AdhesivesSpread a 1/4" thick coat of adhesive onto the surface of one grid area using the flat side of the trowel. Do not cover the guidelines. When completed, immediately use the notch side of the trowel to comb adhesive into standing ridges by holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle. Remove any excess adhesive, leaving the setting bed uniform and ridged. Spread no more area than can be set in 15 minutes.
Setting TileAfter determining the appropriate adhesive and mortar, begin setting the tile. Start with the first tile in the corner of the grid and work outward. Set tiles one at a time using a slight twisting motion. Do not slide tiles into place. Insert tile spacers as each tile is set, or leave equal joints between tiles. Continue until all tiles within the grid are set. When grid is completely installed, tap the tiles in with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a good bond and a level plane.
Remove any excess adhesive from joints with a putty knife and from the face of tiles with a damp sponge before moving on to the next grid.
Each grid must be installed correctly and completely within the layout grid lines for a successful overall installation.
Cutting TileMeasure tiles to be cut carefully and mark with a pencil or felt-tip pen. Edges that are too sharp may be smoothed with a carborundum stone. Make straight or diagonal cuts using a tile cutter. Make small curved cuts with nippers. Chip away small pieces for best results. Make full length curved cuts with a rod saw.
Soap dishes, towel bars, paper holders, etc. should be set in the spaces left out for them. Apply a room emperature, vulcanizing silicone sealant to the back of each accessory. Position over hole and press firmly. Wipe off any excess silicone that may have leaked out from the sides.
Use masking tap to hold in place and prevent slippage during cure time. After 24 hours, remove tape and grout perimeter edges.
4. Grouting Joints
Before grouting joints, the tile should be well-set to prevent breaking the bond. Refer to the adhesive package for specific time. Generally, you should wait about 24 hours before grouting. Remove all the spacers used for setting. For the correct type of grout for your tile installations, refer to the following chart:
Wall/Counter Tile
Joint Width Grout Type Less than 1/8"More than 1/8" Non-sandedFine-grain sanded
Floor Tile
Joint Width Grout Type Less than 1/8"1/8" to 3/16"More than 1/8" Non-sandedFine-grain sandedCoarse-grain sanded
Determine the grout color of your choice. For best results, choose on the color-coordinates with the tile.
Carefully read all instructions and precautions on the package. Mix grout according to instructions. Make only enough to use within about 30 minutes. Wear protective gloves to protect your skin.
Spread the mixed grout on the tiled surface, forcing grout down into joints with a rubber grout float or squeegee. Tilt the float at a 45 degree angle to aid the compacting action.
Remove excess grout from the surface immediately with edge of float. Tilt float at a 90 degree angle and scrape it diagonally across the tiles. Continue the process of compacting, then scraping off excess, until you have grouted for approximately 30 minutes or when the mixture begins to stiffen.
Discard stiffened grout mixture and begin cleanup procedure.
Cleanup
Wait 15 to 20 minutes for grout to set slightly, the use a damp sponge to clean grout residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints. Rinse sponge frequently and change water as needed. Let the area dry until grout becomes hard and a haze forms on the tile surface, then polish with a soft cloth. If haze is stubborn, you may want to rinse again with a sponge and clean water. Wait 72 hours before heavy use. Do not apply sealers or polishes for three weeks until fully-cured, and only in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations
Ceramic tile may be installed over most structurally-sound substrates.
Make sure all surfaces to be tiled are clean, smooth, dry and free of wax, soap scum and grease. Any damaged, loose or uneven areas must be repaired, patched, and leveled. Remove all moldings, trims, appliances, etc. which may interfere with the installation. Door jambs may be undercut for tiles to slip under.
2. Layout
When tiling walls, tubs, or shower areas, begin by finding the center point of the wall. Use a level to draw a plumb line in the center of the wall.
Align a row of loose tiles across the bottom of the wall from the center line, leaving uniform joints between tiles. If your tiles have integral spacer lugs, the tiles can be abutted to automatically leave consistent 1/16" joints.
If this layout leaves small cuts (less than 1/2 tile) at walls then adjust plumb center line a half tile closer to the side wall.
Now determine the lowest point of the floor (or tub) by horizontally using a level. Stack two tiles here, and at the top draw a horizontal line on the wall. With a level, continue the line around all side walls to be tiles. This line is a guideline for the first row of tiles to be set above.
Begin installing tiles to the center of the wall above the horizontal guideline. Install one half of the back wall at a time. Set the lower two rows last. Cut and fit bottom tiles against the floor (or tub) if not level. Leave a 1/8" gap above the tub for caulking to seal around tub.
Repeat the above process for side walls. Mark outside tile lines on walls that will not be completely tiled in order to spread adhesive.
Leave out tiles where you plan to install ceramic accessories (soap dish, towel bar, etc.)
Use bullnose trim pieces to finish edges on walls where necessary.
Floor LayoutWhen tiling floors, begin by marking the center points of all four walls. Snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls. The lines will intersect in the center of the room. Make sure that the lines make perfect squares and adjust if necessary.
Lay out a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, leaving spaces for uniform joints between the tiles (use tile spacers).
If this layout leaves small cuts (less than 1/2 tile) at walls, then adjust the center line by snapping a new chalk line a half tile closer to the wall. Repeat this process along the other center line, adjusting as necessary.
Now divide the room into smaller grids by snapping additional chalk lines parallel to the center lines. To fit the exact dimensions of these grids, lay out an area of tile approximately 2' x 3' starting in the center of the room along the center lines. Use tile spacers or leave equal joints between the tiles. Measure this grid and use the dimensions for each smaller grid throughout the room.
Begin installing tiles in the center of the room. Install one quarter of the room, one quarter at a time. Finish each grid before moving on to the next one. Cut and fit the perimeter tiles in each grid last. Leave a 1/4" gap between the tile and walls.
Do not walk on fresh tiles for about 24 hours until they set.
Countertop LayoutWhen tiling counters, lay out tiles from front to back. Begin with counter trim then set full tiles on the first row working backward, so all cuts are made on the back row against the wall. Special trim pieces are available for use around recessed sinks, appliances, etc. if necessary.
Snap parallel chalk lines on the substrate as needed to keep rows straight.
For backsplashes, match up joints with the countertop tile. Begin with full tiles at the counter, working up so that all cuts are made on the top row under cabinets. Use bullnose trim pieces on flat walls or sides. Tile countertops should have a tile backsplash at least four inches high for protection.
3. Setting Tile
Variation of shade and texture is an inherent characteristic of ceramic tiles. For a blended effect, mix tiles from several cartons as you set.
Tile ceilings before walls Tile walls before floors.Tile countertops before backsplashes
Once you have chosen the proper adhesive or mortar, read all instructions and precautions on the package before using. Mix thinset or mortar according to the directions on the package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes. Pre-mixed wall tile adhesives can be applied directly from the can without mixing.
Determine the appropriate type of trowel (V or square-notch) and the right size (depth of notches) for the type of tile you are setting. Refer to the setting material package for recommendations.
Applying AdhesivesSpread a 1/4" thick coat of adhesive onto the surface of one grid area using the flat side of the trowel. Do not cover the guidelines. When completed, immediately use the notch side of the trowel to comb adhesive into standing ridges by holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle. Remove any excess adhesive, leaving the setting bed uniform and ridged. Spread no more area than can be set in 15 minutes.
Setting TileAfter determining the appropriate adhesive and mortar, begin setting the tile. Start with the first tile in the corner of the grid and work outward. Set tiles one at a time using a slight twisting motion. Do not slide tiles into place. Insert tile spacers as each tile is set, or leave equal joints between tiles. Continue until all tiles within the grid are set. When grid is completely installed, tap the tiles in with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a good bond and a level plane.
Remove any excess adhesive from joints with a putty knife and from the face of tiles with a damp sponge before moving on to the next grid.
Each grid must be installed correctly and completely within the layout grid lines for a successful overall installation.
Cutting TileMeasure tiles to be cut carefully and mark with a pencil or felt-tip pen. Edges that are too sharp may be smoothed with a carborundum stone. Make straight or diagonal cuts using a tile cutter. Make small curved cuts with nippers. Chip away small pieces for best results. Make full length curved cuts with a rod saw.
Soap dishes, towel bars, paper holders, etc. should be set in the spaces left out for them. Apply a room emperature, vulcanizing silicone sealant to the back of each accessory. Position over hole and press firmly. Wipe off any excess silicone that may have leaked out from the sides.
Use masking tap to hold in place and prevent slippage during cure time. After 24 hours, remove tape and grout perimeter edges.
4. Grouting Joints
Before grouting joints, the tile should be well-set to prevent breaking the bond. Refer to the adhesive package for specific time. Generally, you should wait about 24 hours before grouting. Remove all the spacers used for setting. For the correct type of grout for your tile installations, refer to the following chart:
Wall/Counter Tile
Joint Width Grout Type Less than 1/8"More than 1/8" Non-sandedFine-grain sanded
Floor Tile
Joint Width Grout Type Less than 1/8"1/8" to 3/16"More than 1/8" Non-sandedFine-grain sandedCoarse-grain sanded
Determine the grout color of your choice. For best results, choose on the color-coordinates with the tile.
Carefully read all instructions and precautions on the package. Mix grout according to instructions. Make only enough to use within about 30 minutes. Wear protective gloves to protect your skin.
Spread the mixed grout on the tiled surface, forcing grout down into joints with a rubber grout float or squeegee. Tilt the float at a 45 degree angle to aid the compacting action.
Remove excess grout from the surface immediately with edge of float. Tilt float at a 90 degree angle and scrape it diagonally across the tiles. Continue the process of compacting, then scraping off excess, until you have grouted for approximately 30 minutes or when the mixture begins to stiffen.
Discard stiffened grout mixture and begin cleanup procedure.
Cleanup
Wait 15 to 20 minutes for grout to set slightly, the use a damp sponge to clean grout residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints. Rinse sponge frequently and change water as needed. Let the area dry until grout becomes hard and a haze forms on the tile surface, then polish with a soft cloth. If haze is stubborn, you may want to rinse again with a sponge and clean water. Wait 72 hours before heavy use. Do not apply sealers or polishes for three weeks until fully-cured, and only in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations
Friday, July 18, 2008
Questech Switchplates The Final Touch to your Backsplash!
Questech Switchplates are one of the hottest new accessories for your kitchen backsplash.You have invested a lot of time, energy and money into your new beautiful kitchen backsplash, but it still is not complete.
Questech is the world's leading manufacturer of decorative tile, recognized for superior design, innovation and craftsmanship. The company's legacy of innovation comes from noted sculptor and founder, Roger Questel. Roger invented a breakthrough technology, a process for casting beautiful metal objects at a fraction of the weight and cost of solid metals. His discovery led to the launch of the industry's first mass-produced metal tiles, creating an important new category in the tile and home improvement markets.
Questech has come out with a line of switchplates that are a cast stone composite made with real natural stone particles. The Sandgate Collection is made up of 9 different switchplate styles(options) available in 2 colors of travertine (01) and noche (02).The nine sizes consist of a single toggle, single duplex, single GFCI, double toggle, double GFCI, triple toggle, triple GFCI, toggle/duplex combo and a toggle/GFCI combo.The switchplates come with a coordinating mounting hardware and are recessed for a flush smooth finish. The single plates will retail for less than $10 each, while the doubles and triples will range from $15 - $20 each respectively. This is a small price to pay for the total completion of your backsplash.
All Questech products are permanently protected by Q-Seal, a revolutionary lifetime sealer. Q-Seal keeps your tiles and accessories looking as beautiful as the day they were installed. (1) Guaranteed to be water and stain resistant for as long as you own your home. (2) Features Ultra Fresh antimicrobial protection - inhibits stain and odor causing mold and mildew. (3) Worry free cleaning - use any household cleaner.Questech's products have recieved both the Platinum and Gold 2007 ADEX award(Awards for Design Excellence). The ADEX award are earned annually and constitute the largest and most prestigious awards program for product design of fixtures and finishes marketed to the design trade.
The company, located in Rutland, Vermont, designs and manufactures its products in a new state-of-the-art facility, ensuring that each product is made with the highest levels of quality, craftsmanship, and design. "By their nature, our tiles pay homage to the past, yet they beautifully adorn modern kitchens and baths. Our goal is to strike a balance between the past and the present, the natural and the man-made. Our dream is to help you create a more beautiful and welcoming home." Roger Questel - Chairman and Creative Director
Enjoy your beautiful new kitchen backsplash with the final touch, your new switchplates by Questech.
Questech is the world's leading manufacturer of decorative tile, recognized for superior design, innovation and craftsmanship. The company's legacy of innovation comes from noted sculptor and founder, Roger Questel. Roger invented a breakthrough technology, a process for casting beautiful metal objects at a fraction of the weight and cost of solid metals. His discovery led to the launch of the industry's first mass-produced metal tiles, creating an important new category in the tile and home improvement markets.
Questech has come out with a line of switchplates that are a cast stone composite made with real natural stone particles. The Sandgate Collection is made up of 9 different switchplate styles(options) available in 2 colors of travertine (01) and noche (02).The nine sizes consist of a single toggle, single duplex, single GFCI, double toggle, double GFCI, triple toggle, triple GFCI, toggle/duplex combo and a toggle/GFCI combo.The switchplates come with a coordinating mounting hardware and are recessed for a flush smooth finish. The single plates will retail for less than $10 each, while the doubles and triples will range from $15 - $20 each respectively. This is a small price to pay for the total completion of your backsplash.
All Questech products are permanently protected by Q-Seal, a revolutionary lifetime sealer. Q-Seal keeps your tiles and accessories looking as beautiful as the day they were installed. (1) Guaranteed to be water and stain resistant for as long as you own your home. (2) Features Ultra Fresh antimicrobial protection - inhibits stain and odor causing mold and mildew. (3) Worry free cleaning - use any household cleaner.Questech's products have recieved both the Platinum and Gold 2007 ADEX award(Awards for Design Excellence). The ADEX award are earned annually and constitute the largest and most prestigious awards program for product design of fixtures and finishes marketed to the design trade.
The company, located in Rutland, Vermont, designs and manufactures its products in a new state-of-the-art facility, ensuring that each product is made with the highest levels of quality, craftsmanship, and design. "By their nature, our tiles pay homage to the past, yet they beautifully adorn modern kitchens and baths. Our goal is to strike a balance between the past and the present, the natural and the man-made. Our dream is to help you create a more beautiful and welcoming home." Roger Questel - Chairman and Creative Director
Enjoy your beautiful new kitchen backsplash with the final touch, your new switchplates by Questech.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Recycled Glass tiles
There has been a huge effort for communities to establish and promote recycling programs to help keep some of the glass out of the landfills. Most glass recycling is used in products that are not seen from the naked eye. For example recycled glass is used in asphalt for roadways, insulation for your home, backfill for construction projects and even in some reflective paint.The up and coming area for the use of recycled glass is in recycled glass tiles.
Most companies who are producing recycled glass tiles are using anywhere from 30% up to 100% post consumer waste of glass.Recycled glass tiles are produced by melting down waste glass or unusable glass in a heated furnace in which the temperature will exceed over 2000 F. The molten glass is then stamped or poured into their appropriate mold, hand trimmed and even ground down to its form. The beauty of the recycled glass is that the variations in each tile is what gives it the their distinct characteristics.
Glass tiles can be used anywhere normal ceramic tiles would be installed. Recycled glass tiles have the benefit of being resistant to chemical and stains which makes it nice to be used in wet areas. Recycled Glass tiles can be used on floors, walls, backsplashes, countertops, tabletops and among other areas in your home.The thing to remember about the recycled glass, is that about 80% of the glass tiles are transparent.
This means when you are installing the glass tiles, make sure your background(area of installation) is painted white. When using your thinset(which you want to use white), you want to use a very small trowel for installation. This helps to eliminate the trowel marks that could be visible after the installation. The smaller the trowel the better. When using a smaller trowel, you press the glass tile mosaic it will flatten down the trowel and give it a smoother, cleaner look and install.The color choices for recycled glass tiles are growing every year. They even have solid, matte, iridescent, and clear colors available. Using recycled glass tile in your home is a way to add color and beauty and also a way for you to help out our environment and keep some of the glass out of our landfills.
To view some beautiful glass tiles and available colors visit: www.mytilebacksplash.com/recycledglass.aspx
Most companies who are producing recycled glass tiles are using anywhere from 30% up to 100% post consumer waste of glass.Recycled glass tiles are produced by melting down waste glass or unusable glass in a heated furnace in which the temperature will exceed over 2000 F. The molten glass is then stamped or poured into their appropriate mold, hand trimmed and even ground down to its form. The beauty of the recycled glass is that the variations in each tile is what gives it the their distinct characteristics.
Glass tiles can be used anywhere normal ceramic tiles would be installed. Recycled glass tiles have the benefit of being resistant to chemical and stains which makes it nice to be used in wet areas. Recycled Glass tiles can be used on floors, walls, backsplashes, countertops, tabletops and among other areas in your home.The thing to remember about the recycled glass, is that about 80% of the glass tiles are transparent.
This means when you are installing the glass tiles, make sure your background(area of installation) is painted white. When using your thinset(which you want to use white), you want to use a very small trowel for installation. This helps to eliminate the trowel marks that could be visible after the installation. The smaller the trowel the better. When using a smaller trowel, you press the glass tile mosaic it will flatten down the trowel and give it a smoother, cleaner look and install.The color choices for recycled glass tiles are growing every year. They even have solid, matte, iridescent, and clear colors available. Using recycled glass tile in your home is a way to add color and beauty and also a way for you to help out our environment and keep some of the glass out of our landfills.
To view some beautiful glass tiles and available colors visit: www.mytilebacksplash.com/recycledglass.aspx
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Glass Tile Backsplashes - So Many Choices.
Where to begin? There are so many choices today of glass tile for your backsplash, where do you even begin? Let's start with the breakdown of types of glass tile available.
Clear Glass mosaics - This was probably the first and most common glass tile for backsplashes. It is a simple 1" x 1" or 1" x 2" clear glass with the actual color paper adhered to the back of the tile to give it the vibrant color. This comes in both a 4mm and an 8mm thickness.
Recycled Glass - Eye-catching colors, rustic elegance and environmentally friendly recycled glass make recycled glass an exceptional choice! Due to the handmade character of this tile series, variations in shade, color and size within each sheet should be expected. Most recycled glass is comprised of between 30 and 70 percent glass from bottles and/or other waste glass that would otherwise have entered the solid waste stream. The most popular sizes are 1" x 1" and 1" x 2" brick.
Gem Stone Glass - Unique and exceptionally elegant, the color of gemstone glass mosaics are blended in while the glass is still in the molten state, so the colors will never fade away. Variations in color, swirl and shade are the characteristics of all gem stone glass mosaics. This series will come in an array of sizes from 5/8" x 5/8", 1" x 1" and even some 1" x 2" sizes.
Stained glass - There are 2 different types of stained glass to consider. First, there is the stained glass that is actualy made into sheet goods then cut to the different mosaic sizes which range from a 5/8" x 5/8" to a 2" x 2" and also available in small brick patterns that are normally 1/4" x 2" and the multi brick size that has 4- 6 different sizes on one sheet of mosaic. This type is normally recitified or more of a square, clean cut mosaic.Second, is the type that is poured into a mold and then popped out for a tile. This type usually has more of an uneven texture which will give it its brilliance of color and variations of texture. This style normally comes in a 2" x 2" or 4" x 4" size. This style is normally NOT mesh mounted and there is more worked involved in the installation process.
Don't get me wrong there is a lot more glass options available then what I described. In today's emerging market the ideas and products are limitless. These are just a few of the more popular glass ideas that are seen and used on a day to day basis in most kitchen backsplashes across the United States. The thing to do is to go into your project with an open mind and don't get overwhelmed with the choices. Take your time, and enjoy the possibilities because no matter what glass you choose your backsplash will be stunning!
Clear Glass mosaics - This was probably the first and most common glass tile for backsplashes. It is a simple 1" x 1" or 1" x 2" clear glass with the actual color paper adhered to the back of the tile to give it the vibrant color. This comes in both a 4mm and an 8mm thickness.
Recycled Glass - Eye-catching colors, rustic elegance and environmentally friendly recycled glass make recycled glass an exceptional choice! Due to the handmade character of this tile series, variations in shade, color and size within each sheet should be expected. Most recycled glass is comprised of between 30 and 70 percent glass from bottles and/or other waste glass that would otherwise have entered the solid waste stream. The most popular sizes are 1" x 1" and 1" x 2" brick.
Gem Stone Glass - Unique and exceptionally elegant, the color of gemstone glass mosaics are blended in while the glass is still in the molten state, so the colors will never fade away. Variations in color, swirl and shade are the characteristics of all gem stone glass mosaics. This series will come in an array of sizes from 5/8" x 5/8", 1" x 1" and even some 1" x 2" sizes.
Stained glass - There are 2 different types of stained glass to consider. First, there is the stained glass that is actualy made into sheet goods then cut to the different mosaic sizes which range from a 5/8" x 5/8" to a 2" x 2" and also available in small brick patterns that are normally 1/4" x 2" and the multi brick size that has 4- 6 different sizes on one sheet of mosaic. This type is normally recitified or more of a square, clean cut mosaic.Second, is the type that is poured into a mold and then popped out for a tile. This type usually has more of an uneven texture which will give it its brilliance of color and variations of texture. This style normally comes in a 2" x 2" or 4" x 4" size. This style is normally NOT mesh mounted and there is more worked involved in the installation process.
Don't get me wrong there is a lot more glass options available then what I described. In today's emerging market the ideas and products are limitless. These are just a few of the more popular glass ideas that are seen and used on a day to day basis in most kitchen backsplashes across the United States. The thing to do is to go into your project with an open mind and don't get overwhelmed with the choices. Take your time, and enjoy the possibilities because no matter what glass you choose your backsplash will be stunning!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
